Machko Chai Khana is a true institution, an old and traditional tearoom carved into the walls of the ancient citadel of Erbil. This is where many local thinkers and writers gather to sip tea, play cards and swap stories. Today, local intellectuals are rubbing shoulders with refugees arriving from all over Iraq and Syria. “ Americans are the main reason why Iraq is destroyed ,” sighs Ishmaeal Khalil, an Iraqi nuclear scientist forced to escape from his native city of Tikrit, where he was a teacher at the university. “ I used to teach and to create: I used...
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